London: Haymarket Hotel

THE BASICS

All you need to know about the Haymarket, the latest luxury offering in the rapidly expanding empire of the British hoteliers Tim and Kit Kemp, can be found in the basement of the converted Regency-era building designed by John Nash. There — reached by an elevator that robotically (and annoyingly) announces the arrival of every floor — you will find a gorgeous 60-foot pool, hypnotically lighted by the ever-changing (one minute blue, the next yellow or red) wall installation by the artist Martin Richman, along with a sleek pewter bar and several seating areas with modish sofas, including a few covered in gold lamé. It almost seems a shame to disturb the serenity of this achingly beautiful room by actually going for a dip. And that's kind of how the Haymarket feels: like an expensively designed stage set for an upscale hotel rather than a comforting place you might gratefully return to after a hectic day seeing London.

THE LOCATION

The hotel is set on a small street off Haymarket, in central London, an area crowded with tourist attractions, like the National Gallery (two blocks away) and several West End theaters, but thin on upscale lodging choices.

THE LOOK

In a word, eclectic. Kit Kemp, the designer half of the duo, has created individual looks for each of the 50 rooms and suites, mixing eras, colors and fabrics. (Though the inclusion of bare dressing dummies in many of the rooms seems to be one consistent touch.) On the ground floor are three spacious rooms that lead into one another: a stark lobby in white and yellow dominated by a Tony Cragg sculpture; a coolly elegant conservatory done in shades of green; and the boldly furnished library with wild patterns and colors that at first glance seem to clash, but then gradually grow on you. (Maybe the “honor” bar, with its ample alcoholic offerings, helps.)

THE CROWD

Dedicated Kempophiles who have followed every step of this stylish couple as they have progressively moved up the hipster food chain, from the lovely country-house style of the Pelham in South Kensington to the buzz-creating Soho Hotel in the heart of London's media district.

THE ROOMS

The bedrooms are surprisingly — stunningly — large by London standards, with furnishings that are a mix of modern pieces and antiques. The roomy bathrooms are sleekly designed in granite, glass and oak, with double basins, a separate shower and an oversize bathtub, as well as large flat-screen TVs.

AMENITIES

All the standard high-tech offerings — high-speed wireless access, DVD/CD players — are provided in guest rooms, but the gym (situated off the pool area) is a disappointingly small and cheerless place.

ROOM SERVICE

Available 24 hours, with offerings ranging from mushroom and taleggio panini (£8.50, or $17 at $2 to the pound) to a grilled leg of lamb with a rosemary and anchovy sauce (£14.50). A Continental breakfast ordered for 9 a.m. arrived right on the dot.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Some fans of the Kemps may yearn for a hotel that tries a little less strenuously to make a statement, but you can't fault the couple's commercial instincts: During a recent stay, a party was held each night somewhere in the hotel, while a clutch of paparazzi waited outside for someone fabulous to exit. Rooms start at £245 for a double and go up to £2,250 for a two-bedroom suite. Haymarket Hotel, 1 Suffolk Place, (44-20) 7470-4000, www.firmdale.com.